Nyssa... Heading 31 km east from Aydin brings you to the town of Sultanhisar and, three km to the north, the site of ancient Nyssa, set on a hilltop amid olive groves. You'll have to walk or hitch to the site, as there is no public transport. When you reach the ruins you'll find a water fountain, public toilets, a guard and no admission fee. The guard will show you around the site if you wish; a tip is expected. The major ruins here are of the theatre, next to the parking area, which has olive trees growing from its tiers of seats, and a long tunnel beneath the road. A five-minute walk up the hill along the road and through a field brings you to the bouleterion, which has some nice fragments of sculpture. What you will remember about Nyssa, however, is the peacefulness and bucolic beauty of its site, very different from tourist metropolises such as Ephesus. Nazilli, 14 km east of Nyssa and Sultanhisar, has a population 120,000 and is the transfer point for a trip to Aphrodisias. The bus station is just north of the main highway. There are a few direct buses a day between Karacasu and Izmir (210 km, 3/2 hours, US $ 2) and Selcuk (130 km, two hours, US $ 1.75). If you don't get one of these, take a bus from Izmir, Selcuk, Ortaklar, Aydin or Denizli to Nazilli, and from there a dolmus to Geyre, a village 55 km from Nazilli and right next to the ruins. If you can't find a dolmus to Geyre or Aphrodisias, take one to Karacasu, 42 km from Nazilli, and take a dolmus, hitch a ride or hire a taxi in Karacasu for the final 13 km to Geyre and the ruins. You should be able to hitch easily in summer. Nazilli is the local transportation hub, with buses to and from Izmir and Selcuk about every 45 minutes or less in the morning and afternoon, but infrequent in the evening. The province's capital, also called Aydin, enjoys a widespread reputation for its fine figs. Known as Tralleis in ancient times, it was at the center of a celebrated sculpture school. The remains seen today date from the second century AD. After 1186, the town came under Seljuk rule, and the local museum displays artifacts from the different periods of its history. 35 km east of Aydin lies Sultanhisar, host to an Art and Culture Festival every spring. Nearby, in the quiet of the olive trees, are the ruins of ancient Nysa, famous in the second century AD. as an educational center. Back along the coast, Kusadasi, or Bird Island, is a lovely port built along the shores of a glittering bay. The terraced town overlooks the most beautiful inlet of the Aegean and seems to have been created purely for the delight of the holiday maker.

A large modern marina facilitates life for visiting yachters. The exquisite Menderes River valley, known in the West as the Meander, has been the cradle of many civilizations. Set amidst pine, olive and oleander trees, the magnificent Camici (Bafa) Lake is a lovely, peaceful place to stay. Tourists can choose between guest houses or camp sites. To the east of the lake rise the five peaks of the Besparmak Mountains. The ruins of the ancient city of Heraklia lie close to the lake while the remains of Alinda are found on the eastern slopes of the Besparmak Mountains. The valley has witnessed the rise and fall of several great cities, notably Priene, Miletos, Didyma, Aphrodisias, and Hierapolis. Gullubahce (Priene) was one of the most active ports of the lonian Federation. The gridlike system of streets introduced in the fourth century BC. by Hippodamos of Miletos is a superb and early example of town planning.