Harran... In the great plain of High Mesopotamia, Sanliurfa, known in ancient times first as Ur and later as Edessa, proudly exhibits the legacy of all the civilizations that have prospered in this region. In the second millennium BC, it was a city of a Hurrite state. Tradition relates that Abraham was born in a cave near where the Mevlid Halil Mosque now stands. Today the cave is a pilgramage site and flocks of pigeons do not seem to disturb the elderly men praying around the entrance. The remains of a castle with two Ione Corinthian columns rising above the ruined walls, stands atop a small crest. At the foot of the hills, the lovely Halil Rahman Mosque is built around a quiet pool in which sacred carp swim. The 17th century Ottoman Ridvaniye Mosque and the Firfirli Mosque, formerly the Church of the Apostles, are worth a detour. The archaeological and ethnographical museum, one of the best in Republic of Türkiye, houses important Neolithic and Chalcolithic finds from the Lower "Firat River" region. To capture the spirit of Sanli Urfa, wander through the vaulted eastern bazaar and linger in the courtyards of the old hans (inns); try to find Gümrük Hani and Barutcu Hani - they are the most interesting. Believed to be the ancient city of the same name mentioned in the Old Testament, Harran is known more now for its unusual beehivedwellings than as the place where Abraham spent several years of his life. The archaeological remains include those of the largest ancient Islamic University, city walls dating from the 8th century, four gates and a citadel. The Gap project will transform Harran into one of the most fertile areas in Türkiye. So says the Bible about Harran's most famous resident, who stayed here for a few years back in 1900 BC. It seems certain that Harran, now officially called Altinbasak, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited spots on earth. Now its ruined walls and Ulu Cami, its crumbling fortress and beehive houses give it a feeling of deep antiquity. Harran's ancient monuments are interesting, though not really impressive. It is more the lifestyle of the residents that you may find fascinating. They live by farming and smuggling and now await expectantly the completion of the "Atatürk Baraji" (dam) which will bring water to the irrigation system under construction. Once the longed-for waters arrive, farming might actually become safer and more profitable than smuggling. Besides Abraham's sojourn, Harran is famous as a centre of worship of Sin, god of the moon.

And Terah took Abram his son, and Lot the son of Haran his son's son, and Sarai his daughter in law, his son Abram's wife; and they went forth with them from Ur of the Chaldees, to go into the land of Canaan; and they came unto Harran, and dwelt there. Genesis 11:31

Worship of the sun, moon and planets was popular hereabouts, in Harran and at neighbouring Sumatar, from about 800 BC until 830 AD, although Harran's temple to the moon god was destroyed by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius in 382 AD. Battles between Arabs and Byzantines amused the townfolk until the coming of the Crusaders. The fortress which some say was built on the ruins of the moon god's temple, was restored when the Frankish crusaders approached. The crusaders won, and maintained the fortress for a while before they, too moved on.

Driving twenty miles south to Harran (spelled Haran in many English versions of the Bible) we knew we were in Mesopotamia, the Greek name meaning the land between the rivers (Euphrates and Tigris). In the Hebrew this territory was called Aram-naharaim, "Aram of the two rivers" (Gen. 24:10; Dt. 23:4; the NASB has Mesopotamia). This term may apply only to the area between the Euphrates and the Balih rivers, also known as Paddan-aram - "field of Aram" - in the Bible. The region is part of the wet steppe of Mesopotamia which receives about 12 inches of rainfall annually. It is part of what has been called the "Fertile Crescent," primarily in contrast with the arid desert which surrounds it (The Moody Atlas of the Bible, 7).

The Genesis record tells us that Terah and his family, including Abraham and Sarah, left Ur of the Chaldeans "in order to enter the land of Canaan; and they went as far as Haran, and settled there" (Gen. 11:31). After the death of Terah, Abraham and Sarah continued south to the land of Canaan. Genesis 12:5 indicates that the time spent in Harran was one of prosperity for Abraham. See also Acts 7:2-4.

Paddan-aram was the home of Laban, the brother of Sarah (Gen. 28:2). Rebekah came from this region to be the wife of Isaac (Gen. 24-25) and Jacob spent many years in the area working for Leah and Rachel (Gen. 28ff.). All of his children except Benjamin were born here (Gen. 29:32 - 30:24). The Israelites were able to say, "My father was a wandering Aramean" (Dt. 26:5; Syrian, KJV). The life we see in the area today is reminiscent of the events recorded in Genesis. The women wear colorful costumes even when working in the field or getting water at the well [now replaced by the running water at one place in the village]. Wells supplied the necessary water in Patriarchal times (Gen. 24:11; 29:2).

Harran is mentioned in texts as early as 2000 B.C. as the location of a temple of Sin, the moon-god. Assyria maintained a presence here from the 14th century B.C. The city rebelled against Assyria in 763 B.C. and was sacked (New Bible Dictionary, 453). Sennacherib used this fact to intimidate the Judeans (2 Kings 19:12 = Isa. 37:12). After Nineveh fell in 612 B.C., the Assyrians maintained their capital at Harran until 609 B.C. when the city was captured by the Babylonians. Ezekiel, in prophesying against Tyre, mentions the trade with Harran (Ezek. 27:23).

Before reaching the Syrian border we turned east and headed straight for the mound of ancient Harran. Ruins of the oldest mosque in Turkey from the 8th century A.D. stand on the tell, as do ruins from the time of Saladin (A.D. 1192) and the time of the Crusaders. Ruins of the famous Moslem university are also visible. Harran has a population of about 2300 persons today. Many of them live in beehive- or conical-shaped houses. It is said that these houses are warm in winter and cool in summer. Throughout our journey in eastern Turkey we marvelled at the way man is able to adapt to his environment and utilize the local material to provide housing.

Everything we saw in Harran was interesting, but it was the association with Abraham, Isaac and Jacob that drew us here. We got a little feel for the place they lived for so many years. In a way this was our ancestral home: "And if you belong to Christ, then you are Abraham's offspring, heirs according to promise" (Gal. 3:29).